Feature：Hutongs in Beijing Ⅱ

In the last article,we have talked about one of the features in Beijing.In this chapter,we will show you another one,Houhai,which is surrounded by hutongs, but is not itself a hutong.It's long back to the old Beijing while back up the modern Beijing.

                                                          Chapter Two


                                    The Back Sea—Houhai in Beijing


In Beijing, there is a place called Houhai which is the Back Sea area and situated in central part of Beijing.—crystal water, mountain and weeping willows all around make it a beautiful natural environment. Visitors can gain a full glimpse of the old city Beijing by all the private houses and residents on the shore, the residence of prince and former celebrities. In addition, it is also a wonderful place to feel the flavor of typical Beijing courtyard buildings.

In fact, the Houhai is an artificial lake which officially called Shichahai. It is a clear pool of exclusive access for royal family. Houhai is a strip of water with the famous “the North Sea”, opposite Jingshan mountain and the Imperial palace. Walking along Houhai, you can see the green walls of the old houses easily. Outside those solemn gates, you can just see the tall and dense trees in the yard and it makes people fell mysterious. 

It is said that the water in Houhai linked with the dragon of the Imperial Palace. It has been a treasured place from ancient time to now. Because of its proximity to the Forbiddent City, this area was historically home to court officials and the city's elite. 

Some of their residences still stand. Monks in past dynasties built temples here, and nobles built gardens on the shore, celebrities moved to the lake and began their life on the shore. Therefore, an old saying: “there is Shi sha hai first, after Beijing city.” 

Real old Beijing features and its local people’s life just around the corners of the following places which are must-known and must-see during your exploration in hutongs.

1. Yandaixiejie (Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street)

Yandaixiejie

Yandaixiejie is located near by the Houhai, in the north of Xicheng District. The street originally got its name due to its shape as the street goes from north-east to south-west, like a huge tobacco pouch. It measures 300 meters long which starts from Di'anmen Avenue in the east and ends at Shichahai Lake in the west.

Yandaixiejie, literally meaning "Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street", is one of the most age-old streets in Beijing which could be dated back to Ming Dynasty.


2. Shichahai Hutong

Shichahai Hutong

Made up of 15 smaller hutongs, Shichahai Hutong is along the Shichahai Lake, not far from the Bell and Drum Towers in Beijing. Reflected by the clear lake, the hutongs here appear small but neat, while the ancient houses along the hutongs are elegant with grey bricks and tiles. 

Many former courtyards of celebrities are in the hutong, such as the Prince Kung's Mansion, the former residence of Guo Moruo (a famous Chinese litterateur and ideologist), and the former residence of Song Qingling (a great Chinese revolutionist). 

3. Drum Tower and Bell Tower 

Drum Tower and Bell Tower

Years ago, telling the time by Drum Tower and Bell Tower played an important role in helping people live and work regularly when there was no other means to keep track of the time. -- They are visibly prominent constructions and represent the symbol of this old city. 

The vaguely trapezoidal Drum Tower with its bright yellow tile roof is the most conspicuous structure which locates in the north of the old Imperial City. Climb up to the top floor for a great bird’s-eye view of the surrounding hutongs and the urban sprawl beyond. 

Good views are also on offer at the striking Bell Tower, which boasts a 63-ton bell that’s rung on important occasions like Chinese New Year.

4. Prince Gong's Mansion 

Prince Gong's Mansion

Built in 1777 by a venal official, this 60,000 square meters compound was the home of Prince Gong, the last emperor’s father. It is Beijing's largest and the best preserved Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) princely mansion and is located at Qianhai Xijie to the north of Shichahai.

This is the most lavish of the courtyard residences in the Back Lakes. Landscaped with ponds, rock gardens and pavilions, it offers a glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and famous during the Qing dynasty.

There are mountain peaks, ponds, caves, studies and pavilions distributed throughout the garden. The 'Western-Style Gate,' the 'Grand Theater House' and the 'fu' Stele to be found in the garden are referred to as the 'Three Uniqueness in the Prince Gong's Mansion'.

5. Yinding Qiao (Silver Ingot Bridge)

Yingding Qiao

This white marble bridge, which marks the boundary between Hou Hai and Qian Hai, has stood here for centuries. In the history, it was very much like a silver ingot upside down. Later, it went through some changes, but it still keeps in its shape.

Seeing the west mountain here is known as one of the eight old Beijing wonders，Now people can take a boat and go across the bridge from Qianhai Lake to Houhai Lake or vice versa. Lots of bars are surrounding the bridge, the hub of the Shichahai bar area.

6. Former Residence of Song Qing-ling

Former Residence of Song Qing-ling

The residence was once a garden of one of the Qing Dynasty princes' mansions. This former imperial palace once famously housed Song Qing-ling (Soong Ching-ling) (1892-1981), wife of Sun Yat-sen, modern China's founder. Chairman Mao later rewarded her with this house. 

The area along the banks of Rear Lake is quiet and beautiful, with shady willow trees lining along the streets. Water from Rear Lake has been diverted through an underground channel into a stream that winds its way through the garden. The natural surrounding and the old style house of Song Qing-ling will both give eye-feast and lay out profound historical meaning of it. 

7. Former residence of Mei Lanfang 

Former residence of Mei Lanfang 

This is the superbly preserved courtyard residence of Beijing opera's most eminent star Mei Lanfang. Most intriguing is the exhibition of postures and hand gestures that Meilanfang produced while at the height of his powers in 1935. Specific postures and hand gestures used to convey shyness, dozing, and mild surprise hint at the intricacies of the art form.

Nowadays, the bank of Shichahai Lake has become a bar street, making Shichahai Hutongs a little bit confusing but full of vitality. Both the old hutongs and the modern bars are telling the stories of hutongs' growth.

Houhai Bar Street has a similar style to other bars. Bars around Houhai are not very large--it is simple and has old furniture, green plants, personalized ornaments and a lazy atmosphere. At night, the scenery of Houhai Bar Street is beautiful. The moon hangs in the sky and the light is ambiguous. A faint sound of Erhu or Pipa drift from cruise ships on the lake and all of these add to a romantic atmosphere created in quiet Houhai. 

Lovers whisper while friends drink, and melodies are wonderful. All of this makes people recall the river in their hometowns and the friends from their childhoods. These scenes play together to create a beautiful ambience. 

--Why not choose ideal Houhai to recall your back memory to hoping for wonderful days forward?