Feature：Hutongs in Beijing Ⅲ

Besides Dazhalan and Houhai have been talked about in the last articles,unarguable,Nanluoguxiang is another feature in Beijing which is also famous in the world.In this chapter,you will enjoy a slow and peaceful life in Nanluoguxiang.

                                           Chapter Three


                                                             A hidden treasure in Beijing: Nanluoguxiang

Nowadays, people have lived under armored concrete for too long. The fast pace, cars and digital equipment have taken up too much of our lives. We are in need of regressing to a slow and peaceful life.

Compared to the fast and rhythmic lives of the Beijing people, Nanluoguxiang is a place where hurrying does not happen.

Nanluoguxiang

Tourists can have a glimpse of unpaved enclosures from the past dynasties, listen to the chattering noise of people on the street, or maybe find some valuable crafts from the small stores. Modern and traditional, artistic and civilian, fast and slow: all of these combined together to make Nanluoguxiang.

Stretching several kilometers north of the Forbidden City and just east of Houhai Lake, there is an 800-meter long north-south alleyway which was built in 1267 filled with cafes, bars, and shops all designed in classical Chinese 'hutong' style—Nanluoguxiang.

Nanluoguxiang is the only remaining traditional residential area in China that still fully preserves the chess-board style layout of Hutongs typically found in the Yuan Dynasty, with its scale, quality and historical value unmatched by any other lanes.

In old Beijing’s history, Nanluoguxiang was mainly a protected street of traditional courtyard homes called Siheyuan. It was built under the architectural concept of "residential blocks" -- with the lane serving as the axis dividing 8 parallel hutongs on each side. The lane is so neat that it looks like a centipede. This is where it got its second name, "Centipede Street."

Moreover, Nanluoguxiang is a neighborhood which has traditionally housed merchants, the wealthy and the powerful and it is well on its way to reclaiming that heritage today. The walls and tiles on Nanluoguxiang are a grayish tone, not the royal red of the Forbidden City just one street away. The court officers and literates used to live on this street. 

The following three places mentions are the most famous in Nanluoguxiang with their historical sedimentary deposits.

1. Prince Seng's Mansion

Prince Seng's Mansion

The Prince Seng's Mansion runs through Chaodou Hutong and Banchang Hutong. Chaodou Hutong is the first Hutong in the east by entering Nanluoguxiang. The original Mansion was in huge dimension. Running through the two Hutongs in Nanluoguxiang, the mansion was divided into 3 parts which formed a large cluster and once the west part in Chaodou Hutong was the ancestral temple of the mansion.

2. Mao'er Hutong

Mao'er Hutong

Located on the west of Nanluoguxiang, Mao'er Hutong connects Di'anmen Street in the west, Doujiao Hurong in the north and Dongbuyaqiao Hutong in the south. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).During the Qing Dynasty (1636-1911), there were many workshops of hat-making opened there. That was why it has got the name "Mao'er Hutong" (Maoer means Hat in Chinese).

3. Ju'er Hutong

Ju'er Hutong is in the north of Nanluoguxiang. Famous for its reconstruction project of dilapidated buildings, Ju'er Hutong was awarded "Asian Gold Asian Architecture" by Architects Regional Council Asia in 1992 and "World Habitat Awards" in 1993.

Ju'er Hutong

A small group of courtyard formed by buildings with 2 or 3 floors is sitting in the middle of Ju'er Hutong. Combining together the elegant features of Jiangnan architecture styles and the verve of traditional Quadrate Yard, these new buildings are in harmony with the constructions around.

The Modern time of Nanluoguxiang

The lane of Nanluoguxiang is now famous for the cafes and bars and clothing and handcraft shops that line its hutong laneways as well as its traditional hutong and courtyards. There are well over 20 restaurants and 40 shops scattered along Nanluoguxiang.

This quaint street boasts many cool shops offering silk shawls, handicrafts designed by local artists, and trendy T-shirts featuring images of everything. Some of interest shops such as:

Pottery Workshop

1. The Pottery Workshop at No.23 of Nanluoguxiang
2. So Sweet clothshop at No.110 of Nanluoguxiang
3. Grifted at No. 32 of Nanluoguxiang
4. Plastered T-shirts at No.61 of Nanluoguxiang
5. Shi Jue at No. 17 of Nanluoguxiang
6. Nice Days at No.82 of Nanluoguxiang

In addition, Nanluoguxiang is a mix of history, fashion and culture and it's a big hit with tourists especially the younger generation. It is another bar area besides Houhai Bar Street, Workers’Stadium and Sanlitun Bar Street. But different from those two, Nanluoguxiang Bar Street is much quiet and nature, close to people's life. In a word, Nanluoguxiang is a perfect blend of past and present—

Ubiquitous shops of various characters offer you dining, drink, snack tasting and shopping, every shop or bar here is not very large but interesting with special operation.

Sitting in the traditional quadrate yard, reading a book with a cup of coffee on the table, you will enjoy a different kind of feeling here. Or enjoying a nice tea bar is may be your dream in this lane where you can walk around the Hutong to find it while feeling old Beijing culture.

--All in all, with its impressive historical and cultural legacy, Nanluoguxiang has become a renowned area for tourism and cultural creativity in the ancient capital of Beijing.

Feature：Hutongs in Beijing Ⅱ

In the last article,we have talked about one of the features in Beijing.In this chapter,we will show you another one,Houhai,which is surrounded by hutongs, but is not itself a hutong.It's long back to the old Beijing while back up the modern Beijing.

                                                          Chapter Two


                                    The Back Sea—Houhai in Beijing


In Beijing, there is a place called Houhai which is the Back Sea area and situated in central part of Beijing.—crystal water, mountain and weeping willows all around make it a beautiful natural environment. Visitors can gain a full glimpse of the old city Beijing by all the private houses and residents on the shore, the residence of prince and former celebrities. In addition, it is also a wonderful place to feel the flavor of typical Beijing courtyard buildings.

In fact, the Houhai is an artificial lake which officially called Shichahai. It is a clear pool of exclusive access for royal family. Houhai is a strip of water with the famous “the North Sea”, opposite Jingshan mountain and the Imperial palace. Walking along Houhai, you can see the green walls of the old houses easily. Outside those solemn gates, you can just see the tall and dense trees in the yard and it makes people fell mysterious. 

It is said that the water in Houhai linked with the dragon of the Imperial Palace. It has been a treasured place from ancient time to now. Because of its proximity to the Forbiddent City, this area was historically home to court officials and the city's elite. 

Some of their residences still stand. Monks in past dynasties built temples here, and nobles built gardens on the shore, celebrities moved to the lake and began their life on the shore. Therefore, an old saying: “there is Shi sha hai first, after Beijing city.” 

Real old Beijing features and its local people’s life just around the corners of the following places which are must-known and must-see during your exploration in hutongs.

1. Yandaixiejie (Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street)

Yandaixiejie

Yandaixiejie is located near by the Houhai, in the north of Xicheng District. The street originally got its name due to its shape as the street goes from north-east to south-west, like a huge tobacco pouch. It measures 300 meters long which starts from Di'anmen Avenue in the east and ends at Shichahai Lake in the west.

Yandaixiejie, literally meaning "Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street", is one of the most age-old streets in Beijing which could be dated back to Ming Dynasty.


2. Shichahai Hutong

Shichahai Hutong

Made up of 15 smaller hutongs, Shichahai Hutong is along the Shichahai Lake, not far from the Bell and Drum Towers in Beijing. Reflected by the clear lake, the hutongs here appear small but neat, while the ancient houses along the hutongs are elegant with grey bricks and tiles. 

Many former courtyards of celebrities are in the hutong, such as the Prince Kung's Mansion, the former residence of Guo Moruo (a famous Chinese litterateur and ideologist), and the former residence of Song Qingling (a great Chinese revolutionist). 

3. Drum Tower and Bell Tower 

Drum Tower and Bell Tower

Years ago, telling the time by Drum Tower and Bell Tower played an important role in helping people live and work regularly when there was no other means to keep track of the time. -- They are visibly prominent constructions and represent the symbol of this old city. 

The vaguely trapezoidal Drum Tower with its bright yellow tile roof is the most conspicuous structure which locates in the north of the old Imperial City. Climb up to the top floor for a great bird’s-eye view of the surrounding hutongs and the urban sprawl beyond. 

Good views are also on offer at the striking Bell Tower, which boasts a 63-ton bell that’s rung on important occasions like Chinese New Year.

4. Prince Gong's Mansion 

Prince Gong's Mansion

Built in 1777 by a venal official, this 60,000 square meters compound was the home of Prince Gong, the last emperor’s father. It is Beijing's largest and the best preserved Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) princely mansion and is located at Qianhai Xijie to the north of Shichahai.

This is the most lavish of the courtyard residences in the Back Lakes. Landscaped with ponds, rock gardens and pavilions, it offers a glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and famous during the Qing dynasty.

There are mountain peaks, ponds, caves, studies and pavilions distributed throughout the garden. The 'Western-Style Gate,' the 'Grand Theater House' and the 'fu' Stele to be found in the garden are referred to as the 'Three Uniqueness in the Prince Gong's Mansion'.

5. Yinding Qiao (Silver Ingot Bridge)

Yingding Qiao

This white marble bridge, which marks the boundary between Hou Hai and Qian Hai, has stood here for centuries. In the history, it was very much like a silver ingot upside down. Later, it went through some changes, but it still keeps in its shape.

Seeing the west mountain here is known as one of the eight old Beijing wonders，Now people can take a boat and go across the bridge from Qianhai Lake to Houhai Lake or vice versa. Lots of bars are surrounding the bridge, the hub of the Shichahai bar area.

6. Former Residence of Song Qing-ling

Former Residence of Song Qing-ling

The residence was once a garden of one of the Qing Dynasty princes' mansions. This former imperial palace once famously housed Song Qing-ling (Soong Ching-ling) (1892-1981), wife of Sun Yat-sen, modern China's founder. Chairman Mao later rewarded her with this house. 

The area along the banks of Rear Lake is quiet and beautiful, with shady willow trees lining along the streets. Water from Rear Lake has been diverted through an underground channel into a stream that winds its way through the garden. The natural surrounding and the old style house of Song Qing-ling will both give eye-feast and lay out profound historical meaning of it. 

7. Former residence of Mei Lanfang 

Former residence of Mei Lanfang 

This is the superbly preserved courtyard residence of Beijing opera's most eminent star Mei Lanfang. Most intriguing is the exhibition of postures and hand gestures that Meilanfang produced while at the height of his powers in 1935. Specific postures and hand gestures used to convey shyness, dozing, and mild surprise hint at the intricacies of the art form.

Nowadays, the bank of Shichahai Lake has become a bar street, making Shichahai Hutongs a little bit confusing but full of vitality. Both the old hutongs and the modern bars are telling the stories of hutongs' growth.

Houhai Bar Street has a similar style to other bars. Bars around Houhai are not very large--it is simple and has old furniture, green plants, personalized ornaments and a lazy atmosphere. At night, the scenery of Houhai Bar Street is beautiful. The moon hangs in the sky and the light is ambiguous. A faint sound of Erhu or Pipa drift from cruise ships on the lake and all of these add to a romantic atmosphere created in quiet Houhai. 

Lovers whisper while friends drink, and melodies are wonderful. All of this makes people recall the river in their hometowns and the friends from their childhoods. These scenes play together to create a beautiful ambience. 

--Why not choose ideal Houhai to recall your back memory to hoping for wonderful days forward?

Feature：Hutongs in Beijing Ⅰ

Hutong,is one of the features of ancient Beijing.In this chapter,Beijing's oldest commercial street Dazhalan,which is a famous Beijing Hutong will show its vitalities to you all.

                                             

                                                       Chapter One

       Dazhalan in Beijing: Mellowing with Time


Da Zha Lan, also pronounced Da Sha Lanr by Beijing Locals, is another famous Beijing Hutong. It is a 266-meter (291 yards) long commercial street with a history of 500 years, appeared in the Yuan Dynasty, built in the Ming Dynasty, and developed in the Qing Dynasty, it is said that this hutong was originally named Lang Fang Si Tiao.

During the Qing Dynasty, the government built big fences on each of the streets to prevent thieves and robbers during the night. The fence on Lang Fang Si Tiao was much bigger and was preserved longer, so the name of the Hutong was gradually changed to Da Zha Lan which means a big fence.

After more than 500 years of development, the lane has gradually turned into a commercial street with high-rising stores on both sides. Some doggerel verses, such as “If you want to see some playthings, go to Tianqiao”; “If you want to buy something, go to Dazhalan,” and “Majuyuan on head, Neiliansheng on feet, Badaxiang over body, and Sidaheng around waist”, well depict the status and prosperous scene of Dazhalan in old Bejing.

Thankfully, many of the specialty shops still exist. For example, the old Juyuan Hat Shop, now called the Dongsheng Hat Shop, opened in 1811 and specialized in producing official's hats and satin boots for the nobility; and the famous Ruifuxiang Satin, Silk and Fur Shop, which opened in 1893. There are also the Neiliansheng Shoemaker's and the Nanyufeng Tobacco Shop, both more than 100 years old. The Xinrong General Store has a history of 80 years. 

Nowadays, everything has changed except for the hustle and bustle on Dazhalan Street. With the removal of feudal dross, Dazhalan has begun to take on a strong commercial atmosphere. Many century-old shops, such as Tongrentang Drug Store, Zhang Yiyuan Teashop, Changchuntang Drug Store, and Yueshengzhai Prepared-meat Shop, have made changes to their shops. Besides, many local snacks have also come to the area, forming a new style of dietary culture.

1. Tongrentang

Tongrentang

Established in 1669, Tongrentang is China’s most famous purveyor of traditional Chinese medicine which having supplied medicinal herbs to the imperial court, was later appointed to make up prescriptions for the emperor. This most famous traditional Chinese medicine pharmacy in China opened its first store on the site at which it now stands in 1702 – 73 years.

Tongrentang’s motto may concern some: “that no outsider witnesses the manufacturing process and our sincerity and trustworthiness are left to God’s judgment”, but it has a long history of expertise. Today it sells all manner of herbs, ‘healing’ creatures and drinkable cures, but be sure to have a consultation with a TCM practitioner before you start buying.

2. Ruifuxiang

Ruifuxiang

Ruifuxiang is the oldest and the most reputable silk shop in Beijing. Founded in 1893 by the Meng family, Ruifuxiang has a prestigious past and was entrusted with making the first flag of the People’s Republic. 

As one of the top brands engaged in the trade of silk fabric in Beijing, Ruifuxiang sells a complete line of silk products, including high-class silk and satins as well as coarse cloth and muslin, colorful cloth and cotton print. Tailored clothing is available as well. The store is always piled high with the best materials in the most beautiful prints. 

3. Neiliansheng shoes

Neiliansheng shoes

Founded during the Qing Dynasty, the Neiliansheng Shoes shop bears an auspicious name which means, “Unstopped promotions in official ranks” in Chinese. People love Neiliansheng for its vast array of traditional Chinese slippers and hard-wearing shoes. –All shoes of Neiliansheng using traditional techniques employed by the store since 1853. 

4. Gao Bu Li restaurant

Gao Bu Li restaurant

The famous baozi (steamed bun) restaurant from Tianjin has one of its busiest outposts on Dashilan, constantly packed with hungry shoppers looking for a quality, time honoured delicious snack. 

Another reason for Dazhalan’s popularity was the great number of public amusements concentrated here. 

There were five large theaters, the Qingleyuan (Celebrating Happiness Playhouse), Sanqingyuan (Three Celebrations Playhouse), Guangdelou (Extensive Virtue Playhouse), Guangheyuan (Extensive Harmony Playhouse) and the Tongleyuan (Common Happiness Playhouse). 

When Qing rules made a law prohibiting "uproarious noises in the Inner City areas close to the palace," gentry and rich merchants passed through Qianmen (Front Gate or Zhengyangmen) Gate in the evenings to see plays and operas. These days, people still choose to go to these theaters to watch those old plays and listen to the melodies which will let them enjoy special relax moments.

Throughout the history of old Beijing till today, 36 stores from 11 trades are scattered in Dazhalan, attracting a daily guest-flow of 150,000-160,000, and even more on holidays and weekends. 

In China, nearly everyone knows Dazhalan, and even many foreigners have heard about it. All in all, the reason why Dazhalan still exists today in spite of its ups and downs during its 500-odd-year history lies in its own bright specialties. And it will mellow with time to show its greatness from generation to generation.