Impression Yunnan V: The Jewel of the Southwest--Dali

In the previous articles in Yunnan series, we talked about the some Yunnan impressions of tourists. In this chapter, we will introduce the jewel of the southwest of Yunnan-Dali, another impression about Yunnan.

                                                                    Chapter Five


              The Jewel of the Southwest--Dali

--Dali is famous for its perfect combination of nature and culture. You’ll be amazed at the sights as Dali’s famous three pagodas reflect off a still lake while mountains rise in the background. Now, are you ready to go with me into Dali?

Located northwest of the Yunnan Province, 300 kilo-meters (186 miles) northwest of Kunming, Dali City is the economic and cultural center of the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture. The area is surrounded by mountains on the east, west, and south, and has the Erhai Lake in its center. Here you will find 25 ethnic minorities, which have created a unique cultural heritage amidst the area's picturesque surroundings.

Present Dali is a city that combines history with modern convenience. It is divided into two areas- the Ancient City and the New District. The Ancient City is centered nearby the ancient city of Dali which first built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Ancient buildings, city walls and the old city moat are the sites most frequented by visitors. 

                                                       Wandering in Dali

Dali is a little present waiting for you after a strenuous journey by road. It offers a lake shore dotted with rustic villages, mountains cut with waterfalls and the relaxed atmosphere of a backpacker’s retreat.

Dali Ancient City

While tourists choke its streets today, centuries before Dali was visited by flocks of foreign invaders, who coveted this little town for its favorable location near the Silk Road. Legend goes that Piluoge, an 8th century prince from Yunnan, invited his rivals to a feast, burnt them alive, then set out to merge six small Dai Kingdoms into the powerful Nanzhao Kingdom. Dali, called Taihe at the time, became capital of this powerful kingdom, which enjoyed hegemony over northern Yunnan and upper Myanmar. From here, the ruler of Nanzhao controlled the east to west trade route to India until the kingdom fell in the 13th century under the attack of the Mongol armies of Kublai Khan. 

Set against the stunning mountain backdrop of Cang Shan in northwest Yunnan Province, lackadaisical Dali holds very little to remind the visitor of its turbulent past. In the revitalized town of Old Dali, a backpacker’s paradise of cappuccinos and pizza joints alternate with traditional shops selling tea, Chinese medicine and handicrafts. The cobbled streets of the old town are filled with the patter of feet as tourists and locals alike take leisurely jaunts through the small town. Be aware that the nearby town of Xiaguan is also called Dali City. Don’t end up in the middle of Xiaguan wondering why the small town has suddenly turned into a midsized gray city.

the New District of Dali

While a modern brush has touched Dali, this quaint town perched 1,900m above sea level still remains much of its charm. Architecture is often Bai-inspired. The Bais, an ethnic minority forms the majority in Dali as the Han, Hui, Yi and Tibetan ethnic groups. The indigenous Bai community has grown long roots here. They number over a million today. 

Their cultural influences are found in Dali Town, and in surrounding villages, especially around the Erhai Lake region, just east of Dali. Their homes are often two-storey stone and wood abodes, topped by double-tiered roofs with wooden folding doors and ornamental windowpanes. Being artistically inclined, Bais love to decorate their walls with elegant wash paintings. Courtyards are very popular and well-tended. Bai women adore flowers and camellia and bougainvillea plants are a common feature at home. It also gives the Bai women, clothed in ethnic hues, their nickname“Golden Flowers.”

To fully appreciate Bai-style architecture, cuisine, their fragrant tea and distinctive culture, head for Xizhou and Zhoucheng. The Yan, Hou and Zhou Compounds in Xizhou, a photogenic village 20Km north of Dali, are good examples of the Bai flair for architecture and elegant living. 

Bai women are masters of this folk art. Using a special dye called banlangen, the women paint designs of animals and flowers on favric tied with threads. The threads are cut, and these colorful handkerchiefs, blouses, and scarves flutter like flaming banners in the courtyards as they dry in the sun. 

                                                      Cycling around Dali

Several superb natural and cultural sights are outside“old” Dali’s walled city gates. Be adventurous and be ready to move distances. A 10-minute bicycle ride from Dali takes you to the shores of the breathtaking Erhai Lake. 

You can ride around the lake and meander through Xizhou, Zhoucheng and Shaping villages. The isle in the center is rocky Putuo Island, which retains a Buddhist population and the several ruins, including the Lesser Putuo Temple. For a short island trip, hop onto a boat from Caicun dock some 5Km east of Dali and watch trained cormorants with nooses around their necks pick the day’s catch.

Temple of the Three Pagodas

During your cycling, an obvious landmark is the Temple of the Three Pagodas, situated northwest of Dali. The original structures were built in the 9th century but destroyed by a fire in the 19th century. While being rebuilt in 1978, 600 relics dating from the Nanzhao period were discovered in the pagodas, adding to their prestige. The tallest, called Pagoda of the Thousand Searches, stands 70m high and is comprised of 16 levels, and flanked by two ten-storey octagonal pagodas flank it.

These structures not only store the ashes and bones of saints, scriptures and precious objects, they also invoked Buddha’s protection against natural disasters. The marble stele in front of Pagoda of the Thousand Searches bears the characters“Yong Zhen Shan Chuan” which means,“Forever subdue the mountains and rivers.” Just behind them is the Temple of the Exalted One, which is a museum detailing the history and construction of the pagodas.